The pictures however are quite superlative and more like the India of the tour brochures. That said it is India, and, that means two people stepped in excrement on the way down to the river to catch the boat for the sunrise over the river Ganges. I tell you that simple poo based fact, because now you know what kind of smells abound in the riverside at Varanasi. That and the smell of stale urine, food, sweat, musty old brick in tropical heat... Smell-o-vision does help set the scene.
Sitar playing on the Ganges.
Johnny Depp was here.
The thing about these places of course, is that you have to look past the dire straits, the dirt. You have to look at the culture and the tradition. You also have to look at this river, a hive of Hindu worship and thousands of years of history. This is the river of life, you are born, live and die in the Ganges. Bodies are being burned everyday on the riverside. People bathe, do their laundry and pray in these waters. Every Hindu has to come to the Ganges at least one time in their life.
One of our little team, who has been sick from food choices, is getting a little tired of the dirt, which is unfortunate. I said he has to look beyond it, and we both side stepped a pile of faeces right as I said it. A man walked past and it took a second to register. He was carrying a cobra and was inches away from me. As I looked back, sure enough it was a snake charmer. How awesome!
The hotel here is far from the water's edge, it is a long ride in the cycle rickshaw. The one I took in the morning was pedalled by a guy who must be 70. It would have been more humane to put him in the back and have me pedal. But there is no social security here. When he gets too frail or sick, he will go stay closer to the river. People literally wait to die. And just like Kathmandu, it seems a little odd such private moments are on full view. Our tour leader asked us not to take pictures of the cremations here, so we did not. We did a sunrise boat ride and again at sunset. On the sunset ride we had a flower ceremony, where little baskets of flowers with a candle are set free, floating down the river as you make a wish for your future.
Early morning and crowds already here...
The devout certainly do put their time in, this man shivered as he prayed.
I am so glad I saw a snake charmer in person!
Breakfast was a feeding frenzy after the river at a cafe called Bread of Life, it could have been anywhere in the west, then off to see a fabric shop. Oh why a fabric shop? Well, Varanasi is the centre of the silk industry here. And a man was going to tell us all about it. It was quite fascinating as it turned out, and whilst drinking chai tea, people started laying claim to items from cashmere to silk.
The prices were not low, but the quality was assured.
After that we all wandered through town, Leah, the younger Californian woman, could take the aromatic back alleys no more, so we returned to the meeting point. All the while on the tin roofs, monkeys run riot, at times making the roof seem like it is going to cave in. Even deep in this, a big city really, cows wander free, as well as dogs, monkeys and many, many people. The Norwegian girls nearly had a heart attack in one monkey scrap - I was more concerned about being run over. Cars, tuk tuks, rickshaws and motorbikes weave weave between people tooting their horns and ringing bells incessantly.
It sounds so dire, I am sure. But look at the pics. Amazing.
We also did a yoga class here to tie myself in knots, literally - and went to a Bollywood movie. The movie was as expected, basically anything in life can be fixed by an out sized musical number... And the movie theatre itself was in a newer mall, with a Pizza Hut and McDonalds. Contrast that to the river.
Silk shopping is a sit down with tea affair and they pull hundreds of items out...
Every evening their is a prayer on the river, and 7 priests with their lights performed the ceremony this night.
Oh well, next stop is Orchha on the long Railway trip. sleeper car class.
Ps: Shelly, do you want to sign up for a yoga class?
- BlogPressed from my iPad. Click on picture for larger image and gallery.
